Relação entre força relativa dos flexores dos dedos e desempenho em escaladores recreacionais: homens e mulheres

BACKGROUND: Finger flexor strength is considered determinant of sport climbing performance. However, evidence suggests that strength relative to body mass may be a more relevant indicator of climbing ability than absolute strength, particularly when comparing male and female climbers.OBJECTIVE: To investigate the relationship between relative finger flexor strength and climbing performance in recreational climbers of both sexes.METHODS: Twenty-eight climbers (16 women and 12 men) participated in the study. Climbing performance was determined using the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) scale, based on the highest redpoint grade successfully climbed during the previous three months. Body mass was measured using a digital scale, and maximal finger flexor strength was assessed using a Tindeq® load cell attached to an adjustable testing platform developed by the researchers. Comparisons between sexes were performed using one-way Analysis of Variance (ANOVA), while the association between relative finger strength and climbing performance was examined using Spearman’s rank correlation, with 95% confidence intervals estimated from 5,000 bootstrap resamples (p<0.05).RESULTS: Men demonstrated greater absolute finger flexor strength in both the right hand (30.0±7.0 vs. 22.9±4.2 kg; F(1,26)=10.86; p=0.003; η²=0.295) and the left hand (29.8±7.4 vs. 22.0±3.6 kg; F(1,26)=13.32; p=0.001; η²=0.339), as well as greater body mass (p < 0.001). No significant differences were observed between sexes for relative finger strength (F(1,26)=0.043; p=0.838), climbing performance (p=0.112), or weekly training frequency (p=0.322). Relative finger strength was positively correlated with climbing performance in women (r=0.55; p=0.027), whereas no significant correlation was observed in men (r=0.45; p=0.137).CONCLUSION: Bilateral relative strength did not differ between sexes and showed moderate, non-significant associations with performance. It may be used as a complementary measure when assessing recreational climbers.